The original part is an isolated, switched-mode converter; high efficiency. The LM317 is a non-isolated, linear regulator, and not suitable for 48V input. (A linear regulator with 48V input & 15V output to a 2W load would be dissipating almost 4W of heat; it would need quite a large heatsink adding, making it overall far larger than the original device, as well as wasting a lot of energy ...
Hello. I need to replace both rear motors. I don't want to disassembly whole drone, so I'm thinking about pulling out the motor from the arm, cut the wires and solder new motor. I know this is possible, because I pulled my motor out, but I'm worried about antenna and it's signal wire, because...
I have put back together the entire gimbal already, and I would much rather superglue a plastic piece to the motor than fully disassembling the gimbal again and replacing the motor entirely. I am also looking for replacement Philips 1 screws for the gimbal internals. does anyone have the specs on the screws?
Just by replacing vision sensors It will not work . Professional calibration by specific tool is required . Contact any drone repair or service in your area I just wait, official calibration software support to change it. Like it is done in Mini 3 Pro.. We will see..
Hello forum, I'm replacing the MOSFETs in an Electronic Speed Control (ESC) for RC cars. My problem is, I don't really know what to look for when choosing the new MOSFET. The current rating of my MOSFETs are all higher than the old ones in the ESC. I'm more interested in the gate charge...
Repair Service: Replacing the LR arm axis was honestly a relatively easy repair. After replacing the arm, and powering up the gimbal does its vertical and horizontal tests, but the roll motor "snaps" to ~-45* offset and doesn't move. The roll motor "buzzes" lightly and stays engaged, providing resistance to the touch.
I have a Definitive Technology compact subwoofer that went belly-up and started buzzing constantly instead of producing any sound. After research, I decide to try replacing the primary 6800uf 80v capacitors . After replacing the caps, the behavior has changed, but not really for the better...
Taking off the gimbal bridge cable is the easy part. Stripping down the gimbal is the hard part. I have done many. You have to thread the broken cable down through the hole in the gimbal motor assembly, remove all 3 glued motor covers with a heat gun, remove the camera barrel from the gimbal motor assembly, and replace the LVDS/ribbon cable.
You can try replacing it. I'd use a 2A standard diode. The leads and body look too fat for a simple 1N4001 to 1N4007 range. Also, are you sure it's the problem? Is this the switch by the driver's left knee? To toggle the dome light from always-on to off to on-when-door is open? Or the door switch.
